Paint Ar Barrel With Bbq Paint?

• #ii

I sprayed a stainless tikka with krylon and then put a matte clear coat on information technology. Seems to be very durable.

• #iii

I've used multiple sparse layers of ceramic BBQ grill paint and it'south held upwardly well but it hasn't seen much use or abuse either.

If you're not gonna get information technology Cerakoted the right way, then I'd take a difficult look at Brownell's Alumahyde 2. I use that shit for when I need to make an FDE function black or a blackness office FDE. Almost as good as Cerakote but in spray tin, much tougher than regular spray paint.

But my preferred method was to accept the barrel down to this shop used to bead blast 'em for me. I'd prep it and he'd just blast it. Took a couple minutes and done. Call around. Information technology leaves a deadening gray color, and if still wanted to pigment it, well, now y'all have a adept surface for it. If you went that route, and then they brand a spray on Cerakote, one that bakes on and one that doesn't IIRC...

Stay away from Duracoat, it doesn't work.

Doc68

I don't care what you fucking think

• #6

I use engine paint from advanced machine with ceramic in information technology. Holds up very well.

• #8

I don't know what the name of the finish on my rifle barrel is, but it looked stainless to me.

And so i did this to it...

• #9

"Bead Blasting" leaves a rounded out cease and whatsoever paint you try and utilise is compromised every bit far as adhesion is concerned.

The all-time prep is to boom with aluminum oxide, between 80 and 120 grit. It leaves a cease that will grip the paint, whereas beadblasting leaves a smooth cease and will not grip the applied pigment.

Bead blasting makes stainless barrels expect bang-up, in the raw, only if you try and paint them, the finish will chip/rub off.

• #x

Aluma Hyde Two works great for me. Prep is key, also as post-obit the application tips.

• #12

I but did a butt in alumyde this weekend. I followed directions, did all the prep and when I went to spray it was a sputtering mess. I stripped information technology over again and reprepped, soaked the tip in acetone and tried again. Same matter. Tried a tertiary fourth dimension after soaking the tin in warm water. It finally worked, only it took the rest of the tin to get the barrel done and way more time than information technology was worth.

In all honesty, it's wound upwardly being pretty forgiving and came out damn nice for a rattle can. I wouldn't mess with it again though, and if you practise, purchase the actress nozzles if ordering from Brownells. Next fourth dimension I'm going to do it the "right" way with cerakote and a gun.

Source: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/stainless-barrel-painting.7021944/

Posted by: samuelthelle.blogspot.com

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